There are many kinds of satin, which can be divided into warp satin and weft satin; According to the number of tissue cycles, it can also be divided into five satins, seven satins and eight satins; According to jacquard or not, it can be divided into plain satin and damask.
Plain Satin usually has eight or five warp satins, such as suku satin. There are three kinds of damask: single layer, double weft and multiple weft. Single layer damask is often made of eight pieces of satins or slightly changed from dark flowers, such as flower tired damask and flower wide damask; Weft double damask can have two or three colors, but the colors are elegant and harmonious, such as flower soft damask and Klee damask; Weft multiple damask has gorgeous colors and complex patterns, which can also be called brocade, such as the multicolored table blanket with weft triple weave brocade and weft quadruple weave. The double weft damask has more than eight warp damasks as the ground organization, and the flower part can adopt 16 and 24 weft damasks. According to literature records and archaeological discoveries, there are many kinds of traditional satin fabrics in China, such as soft satin, crepe satin, jiuxia satin, mulberry satin, antique satin, etc.
Soft satin is divided into plain soft satin, flower soft satin and viscose silk soft satin. Plain soft satin is a kind of silk product interwoven with real silk and viscose filaments. Raw woven products are Flat warp and weft, and the warp and weft threads are not twisted. They are usually woven with eight warp satin weave.
Plain soft satin is mostly on the front of the fabric as warp, and sticky fiber is sunk on the back of the fabric as weft. It has a very natural luster in vision, smooth and delicate in touch, good drapability and no rough feeling. Among various varieties of real silk, the wearability is relatively good. It not only has the advantages of wrinkle resistance of double satin fabrics, but also has the characteristics of smoothness and softness of satin fabrics
Flower soft satin is a mixture of silk and viscose filaments. Compared with plain soft satin, it is mainly the difference between flower weaving and plain weaving. Jacquard soft satin is a jacquard silk fabric with weft silk, i.e. sticky filament jacquard and warp satin as ground organization. Such as raw silk, the fabric after scouring and dyeing shows excellent bright and gorgeous patterns, which is extremely beautiful.
The pattern style shows that the ground is clear and the flowers are bright, lively and lively. It is generally used as the fabric of cheongsam, evening dress, dressing gown, cotton padded jacket, children’s cloak and cloak.Viscose silk soft satin is a Flat warp and flat weft raw fabric with viscose silk both in warp and weft. Its structure is basically similar to the above two types, but its appearance and feel are much inferior.
Crepe satin belongs to raw silk products. It adopts satin weave, Flat warp and crepe weft, and the warp is the combination of two raw silk. The strong twist yarn of three raw silk is used, and the weft is woven in the twist direction of two left and two right during weft insertion. The biggest feature of crepe satin is that the two sides of the fabric differ greatly in appearance. It is untwisted warp, very smooth and bright; On the other side, the luster of reinforced twist is dim, and there are small crepe lines after practice and dyeing.
Crepe satin is divided into plain crepe satin and flower crepe satin. It is mainly the difference between plain weaving and flower weaving. It is suitable for all kinds of summer women’s clothing. It is a famous best-selling variety.
Like Liuxiang crepe, jiuxia satin is also a traditional product with national characteristics. It belongs to all silk jacquard raw woven silk with Flat warp and crepe weft. The ground weave adopts weft satin or weft twill, and the fabric after scouring and dyeing has crepe and dark luster; The flower part adopts warp satin. Because the warp is not twisted, the pattern is particularly bright. Jiuxia Satin has soft body, bright patterns and brilliant color. It is mainly used for ethnic minority costumes. Mulberry satin is a conventional silk fabric. The satin texture is clear, antique and very noble. Mulberry satin is usually used for home textile fabrics, such as bedding, and can also be used as high-end fashion fabrics.
Mulberry Satin belongs to a kind of silk jacquard fabric. It refers to the weaving method of sinking and floating warp yarn or weft yarn on the surface of silk fabric according to the regular requirements or interleaving changes to form patterns or patterns. The jacquard pattern can better reflect the aesthetic feeling on silk fabric.
Mulberry Satin has many patterns and varieties, and the manufacturing process is complex. Warp and weft are interwoven into different patterns, with high count, high density, twisting, concave convex, soft, delicate and smooth texture, and good gloss. The pattern of jacquard fabric is large and exquisite, with clear layers, strong three-dimensional sense, novel design, unique style, soft feel, generous fashion, showing elegant and noble temperament.
Antique satin is also a traditional silk fabric in China, which is as famous as brocade. The patterns are mainly pavilions, platforms, buildings, pavilions, insects, flowers, birds and character stories, with simple color style.
The organizational structure of antique satin adopts weft triple organization, and the armour weft and warp are interwoven according to eight Satin patterns,
B-weft, c-weft and warp are woven with 16 or 24 Satin patterns. C-weft can be colored according to the needs of patterns, so its organizational structure is slightly different from that of brocade. The feel of the fabric is thinner than that of brocade. It adopts mature weaving technology and the process is complex. The finished products are mainly used as decorative materials.
Antique brocade is a specialty of Hangzhou. It is a cooked jacquard fabric interwoven with real silk warp and bright rayon weft. It is one of the varieties derived from brocade weaving. The theme is pavilions, platforms, buildings, pavilions, etc. it is named because of its simple color and antique flavor. Antique satin is a representative variety of silk in China. It is a weft triple weave fabric interwoven with a group of warp and three groups of weft. The two weft and warp of a and B are woven into eight warp satins. Because it is elastic, firm but not hard, soft but not tired, it is an ideal fabric for satin and decorative silk for women’s underwear.